![]() ![]() “I don’t think the expectations for me should be any different from any other designers who have won. In an industry that has publically struggled with diversity, Streater says that she doesn’t feel any added pressure to have a successful career because she is an African-American designer. “It’s this really ethereal, wild child photo-but also really romantic.” The Philadelphia native said that her inspiration for the collection came from a photograph of Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova. The 27-piece Fall/Winter 2014 collection called Prima was presented in a studio in downtown New York City to an audience of editors, bloggers and fashion insiders. Martens delivered.Project Runway’s first-ever African-American winner Dom Streater has offically burst onto the New York Fashion Week scene.Īccording to the Huffington Post, the 25-year-old designer presented her first collection during the NYFW festivities. As the techno slowly built into Die Zauberflöte’s mirror-cracking “Queen of the Night,” it was tempting to characterize Martens as a fashion Papageno, playing his magic flute and cutting his magic suits. ![]() ![]() Surrealist accessories including lobster-claw shoes barely snapped at the watching consciousness. There was a woman in all camel, tailored, who looked like she had the best time of her life and reinvented Max Mara in the process. An eye for sexuality male and female and in-between, expressed provocatively but always fogged and frogged by a complicatedly intellectual sleight of hand. Check shirts, denim, and shearling that puckered and fronded in front of the body like beautiful, fleshy twisted orchids. However in the final analysis-when you stripped everything else away-they were but the final fig leaf protecting the creative modesty of what was arguably the finest Y/Project collection to date. They may well also represent a problem for Instagram’s nipple police. It’s very layered-you have men’s prints and women’s prints and they go on top of each other.”Īnother layer! The trompe l’oeil body prints and penis pants that Martens was referring to, and which will be part of Y/Project’s Gaultier-facing ready-to-wear capsule, were certainly striking. So at this ready-to-wear show, as Martens explained, he was paid in kind, up front: “We took one of his most iconic prints and we interpreted it in a Y/Project way. This is because next week at couture Martens will moonlight as a one-season only creative director for Jean Paul Gaultier. We work in the same neighborhood and we both come from Belgium.” At that point, Theyskens started plucking lint from a nearby model’s shoulder, ever the designer, then added: “I think Glenn appreciates the freedom of characters.” Theyskens said just before the show started: “Glenn proposed it to me. Amongst the models were two amateur moonlighters: Camille Bidault-Waddington and Olivier Theyskens. Which suggests the first layering of wrapping in this Glenn Martens mega-delivery to dig into. And it made for a runway so long that by my watch it took a full four minutes for the models to transit from one end to the other-so props to them. The epic venue offered beyond-enough room for social distancing. This must be why it was held in a spaceship-sized logistics artery on the northern edge of Paris that every day, all day, connects freight trains and trucks bringing goods into the city with 23 loading bays’ worth of courier vehicles. There was a lot to unpack in this Y/Project show. ![]()
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